Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Order before 1pm (11am on Fridays) for next working day delivery to most UK addresses.

We use DPD’s 24-hour service, with deliveries made Monday to Friday between 8am and 6pm. Once your order has been dispatched, you’ll receive tracking details by email or SMS so you can follow your delivery and set preferences such as a safe place or delivery instructions. No signature is required.

During busy periods or bank holidays, delivery may take slightly longer.

Some areas fall outside standard next working day delivery:

Up to 48 hours:

AB21–56, BT, FK17–21, G63, GY1–10, IM, IV1–63, JE1–5, KW0–14, PA20–78, PH15–50, TR8, TR10, TR12, TR13, TR19, TR26, TR93

Up to 72 hours:

HS1–9, KA27–28, KW15–17, PA80–88, ZE1–3

• Orders under 1kg may occasionally be sent via Royal Mail 1st Class. Please allow up to 3 working days for these deliveries.

Delivery is £3.99 per order, including handling.

Orders over £35 qualify for free delivery.

No. If delivery isn’t possible, your parcel may be left in a safe place or with a neighbour.

You can also manage delivery preferences in advance, including choosing a safe place, or rescheduling (as long as your order hasn’t been dispatched).

Yes. You can check your order status at any time in your account. Once dispatched, you’ll receive a tracking link by email to follow your delivery.

This website delivers within the UK only.

For European orders, please visit www.vivara.com or www.vivara.ie for Ireland.

We partner with reliable couriers like Evri or DPD to ensure your bird food and garden products arrive safely. The specific courier for your order will be identified in your tracking email.

We pack every order with great care, but if something is not right please contact our customer service team within 48 hours of delivery. We will organise a replacement or refund as quickly as possible.

Because we aim to process orders immediately, we have a very small window to make changes. If you need to cancel or amend an order, please contact us by phone as soon as possible. Once an order has reached the "processing" stage in our warehouse, it can no longer be changed.

If one item is not available, we may ship the rest of your order first. The missing product will be send later at no extra shipping cost.

Unfortunately, due to the size and weight of many of our products (such as large bags of bird seed), we are unable to deliver to PO Boxes or British Forces Post Office (BFPO) addresses.

Please check your designated 'safe place' or with your immediate neighbors first. If the parcel cannot be found, contact our customer service team within 7 days so we can open an investigation with the courier.

At this moment, we do not offer a timed delivery slot service during checkout. However, once your parcel is with the courier, you can often use their app or website to provide specific delivery instructions or divert the delivery to a local pickup point.

There is no limit to how much you can order. However, very large orders (e.g., several big bags of seed) may be split into multiple boxes. These may arrive at slightly different times, though they are usually delivered on the same day.

If you notice a mistake, please call us immediately. Once an order has been dispatched from our warehouse, we are unable to redirect it. In such cases, the parcel is usually returned to us, and we will contact you to arrange a redelivery (which may incur an additional fee).

Our WoodStone® products come with a 10-year guarantee.

WoodStone® is an innovative material made from wood fibres and concrete, combining the natural look of wood with the strength and durability of stone. The result? Nest boxes and insect hotels that are extremely robust, breathable and resistant to weather and rot.

That means your garden animals get a safe, long-lasting home and you get peace of mind for many seasons to come.

Our wooden nest boxes and feeders come with a standard warranty against manufacturing defects.

We carefully select durable wood and design our products for outdoor use, but as natural materials age over time, exposure to weather will gradually affect the appearance. This is normal and doesn’t affect the function of the product.

With proper care and occasional maintenance, wooden nest boxes and feeders can last for many years in your garden.

Our standard plastic feeders are not "squirrel-proof" and damage caused by chewing is generally not covered. However, if you are looking for a feeder that is squirrel-proofed we advise to choose one of our many squirrel resistant bird feeders.

If you believe your product is faulty, please contact our Customer Service team with your original order number and, if possible, a photo of the defect. We will assess the issue and, depending on the situation, provide replacement parts or a complete replacement unit to ensure you can continue supporting your garden wildlife.

Yes, we offer a 60-day hassle-free return policy. If you are not completely satisfied with your purchase, you can return the unused item in its original packaging within 60 days for a full refund or exchange.

One of the main benefits of WoodStone® is its durability. Our 10-year guarantee covers the structural integrity of the box, meaning it is resistant to damage from predators like woodpeckers or squirrels who try to chew or drum their way in.

At CJ Wildlife, we promote repair over replace. Even if your warranty has expired, we stock a wide range of spare parts (lids, bases, and ports) for our most popular feeder models. This allows you to fix your feeder at a fraction of the cost of a new one and reduces environmental waste.

Yes, our camera systems typically come with a 2-year warranty. This covers the camera unit and cables against technical faults. Please note that the warranty does not cover damage caused by improper installation or if the cables are chewed by rodents.

When you buy selected products from us, you’re helping support the vital conservation work of the National Trust.

A contribution from these purchases goes directly towards protecting historic landscapes, wildlife habitats and nature reserves across the UK.

So every feeder, nest box or bird food doesn’t just help the birds in your garden, it also helps protect nature on a much larger scale.

We want you to be completely happy with your purchase. If something isn’t quite right, you can return your product within the return period for a refund or exchange.

Simply contact our customer service team and we’ll guide you through the process.

Our goal is simple: make returns easy, fair and hassle-free, so you can shop with confidence.

Yes. The wood used in our products comes from FSC®-certified sources.

The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®) certification ensures that forests are managed in a way that protects biodiversity, wildlife habitats and local communities.

By choosing sustainably sourced wood, we make sure that supporting birds and wildlife in your garden also helps protect forests and ecosystems for the future.

We’re continuously working to reduce our environmental footprint and packaging is a big part of that.

Wherever possible, we are reducing plastic, switching to recyclable materials and optimising packaging sizes to minimise waste. We’re also exploring innovative packaging solutions that protect products while using fewer resources.

Our goal is simple: less unnecessary packaging, more focus on nature.

Yes. Many of our bird food products are developed and produced in-house.

This allows us to carefully control ingredient quality, nutritional value and sustainability. Our mixes are designed by wildlife experts and specifically formulated for the needs of wild birds and other garden wildlife, providing the energy, protein and nutrients they need throughout the year.

Producing in-house also means we can maintain high standards while constantly improving our recipes.

Vivara is part of the CJ Wildlife family. Vivara focuses on products for wildlife lovers like you, while CJ Wildlife is our research and development powerhouse. Our ornithologists and biologists design all our bird food and habitats to meet the highest standards for nutrition, safety and effectiveness.

Most CJ Wildlife bird food is made in our own production facility in Germany. By producing in-house, we control the whole process, from ingredient selection to the final product that reaches your feeder.

Absolutely. Safety comes first. Every ingredient, especially peanuts, which are rigorously tested for aflatoxins, harmful mould toxins that can be fatal to birds. Our seed mixes are also carefully cleaned to remove dust and debris that could cause respiratory problems.

Yes, it is at the heart of everything we do. We have over 25 partnerships with leading conservation organisations across Europe. We work closely with organisations like the National Trust to research bird populations and develop products that truly help local wildlife and support declining species. We give away £1 million annually to nature restoration and biodiversity projects. Hence with every product you purchase for your garden or balcony, you help create a richer, more vibrant natural world, close to home and far beyond.

Yes! Sustainability is very important to us, therefore many of our most popular mixes and seeds are available in larger sizes (up to 20 kg). Buying in bulk saves money and reduces packaging waste due to the reduction of packaging used per kilogram of food. Good for you and even better for the planet.

WoodStone® is one of our most eco-friendly materials. It is a durable mix of concrete and FSC wood fibres that lasts significantly longer than traditional wood (hence our 10-year guarantee). By creating products that don't need to be replaced every few years, we help reduce waste and the demand for new raw materials.

When you buy from CJ Wildlife, you are directly contributing to wildlife protection. We work closely with partners like the National Trust and Wildlife Trusts in the UK. A portion of our proceeds is donated annually (over £1 million across Europe) to fund vital conservation projects, habitat restoration, and research.

Yes, we have a growing range of products like feeders made from 100% recycled materials, such as recycled beverage cartons. These products are not only eco-friendly by giving waste a second life, but they are also incredibly durable .

By keeping our production largely within Europe and using local distribution centres (like our hub in Shrewsbury for the UK), we significantly reduce the "food miles" of our products. Furthermore, we partner with couriers like DPD, who are leaders in carbon-neutral delivery and electric vehicle use in the UK.

In short: they’re very similar, both are designed for clean, hassle-free feeding.

No Mess seed mixes contain only edible ingredients, with all husks already removed. That means birds eat everything, leaving no shells, no waste and no debris on your lawn or patio.

No Weed mixes take this one step further. Because the husks are removed in advance, there’s no chance of leftover seeds germinating, so you won’t get unwanted plants growing under your feeder.

So while both keep things tidy, No Weed gives you extra peace of mind when it comes to preventing weeds.

Hi-Energy No Mess which is both 'no mess' and 'no weed' plus the birds love to eat it. So win=win=win!

Yes, absolutely. Our peanuts are fully tested and certified aflatoxin-free, so they’re completely safe for wild birds.

Aflatoxins are naturally occurring toxins caused by mould, and they can be harmful to birds if low-quality peanuts are used. That’s why we don’t take shortcuts. Every batch of our bird peanuts is carefully checked and quality controlled to ensure it meets strict safety standards before it reaches your garden.

So whether you’re feeding blue tits, robins, woodpeckers or sparrows, you can offer our peanuts with total confidence.

High in energy, rich in natural oils, and safe for feeding, especially during colder months and seasons when birds need that extra boost.

Feed confidently and safely with our high-quality peanuts.

Birds’ needs change with the seasons and adjusting your feeding makes a real difference.

Here’s the simple guide: Breeding season = more protein and calcium, Winter = more fat and calories

During the Breeding Season (spring & early summer)

This is when birds are nesting, laying eggs and feeding hungry chicks. They need protein-rich, nutritious food, and above all, calcium to support growth.

Why calcium?

Calcium is essential for a strong eggshell formation, healthy chick development and bone growth in young birds.

Best foods for breeding season:

• High-protein seed mixes
• Sunflower hearts
• Mealworms

Why protein?

Growing chicks need it for healthy development, and parent birds need strength to keep up with frequent feeding trips.

Important note: Avoid offering loose whole peanuts during the breeding season, as they can be a choking hazard for young birds.

During Winter

Winter feeding is all about energy and survival. Birds burn extra calories to stay warm, especially overnight.

Best food for winter:

• Peanuts
• Fat balls and suet treats
• High-energy seed mixes

High-fat foods help birds maintain body heat and energy when natural food sources are limited.

Feeding with the seasons helps birds thrive, not just survive.

Short answer: both are good. Here’s how to choose.

Live mealworms

Live mealworms are the closest match to what many garden birds naturally eat. They move, they trigger hunting instincts, and they’re especially attractive during the breeding season.

Best for:

• Feeding parent birds with chicks
• Attracting robins, blackbirds and wrens
• Giving birds a natural protein boost
• They’re high in moisture and protein, ideal when chicks need fast, digestible nutrition.

Keep in mind: They need proper storage and handling, and they’re a bit more effort.

Dried mealworms

Dried mealworms are the convenient, no-fuss option. Same great protein source, just without the wriggle.

Best for:

• Easy, year-round feeding
• Mixing into seed blends
• Clean and simple storage

Top tip: Soak dried mealworms in water for a few minutes before feeding during breeding season. This adds moisture and makes them easier for chicks to digest.

So, which is better?

Want maximum attraction and natural behaviour? → Go live.

Want convenience and easy storage? → Go dried.

Both provide valuable protein.

Yes, we do. We offer a selection of organic bird food options, made with ingredients grown without synthetic pesticides or artificial fertilisers. That means cleaner farming practices and a more natural food source for the birds visiting your garden.

Organic bird food is a great choice if you prefer environmentally responsible sourcing, want to support biodiversity beyond your garden or are looking for high-quality, traceable ingredients.

Just like the rest of our food assortment, our organic products are carefully selected for nutritional value, safety and quality, so birds get the energy they need, naturally.

You’ll find organic options clearly labelled in our shop, making it easy to choose what fits your garden best.

Good for birds. Better for nature.

We recommend adjusting the food you are feeding to your birds' seasonal needs. In winter, birds need high-energy fats to survive cold nights, while in spring and summer, they require extra protein and calories to successfully raise their fledglings when natural resources can still be unpredictable.

To maintain nutritional value and prevent mould, store your bird food in a cool, dry place, ideally in a rodent-proof metal container. Moisture is the enemy of bird seed, so ensure the lid is airtight.

Birds need to find as much energy as possible in the shortest time to minimize exposure to predators. Our food is developed by ornithologists to ensure high calorie density per gram, meaning birds get more life-sustaining energy from every visit to your feeder compared to cheaper, "filler-heavy" alternatives.

Whole peanuts should only be fed from a dedicated mesh feeder. This prevents parent birds from taking whole nuts back to the nest, which can be a choking hazard for small chicks; for ground feeding during spring, we recommend using peanut granules or suet pellets instead.

We are committed to the ethical sourcing of all ingredients. Where we use oils or fats, we ensure they are sourced responsibly. We prioritise ingredients that do not contribute to deforestation, ensuring that helping birds in your garden doesn't come at the expense of tropical ecosystems.

We don't sell fat balls in nets because they are a serious hazard to wildlife. Birds can easily get their feet or beaks trapped in the mesh, leading to severe injury or death. Additionally, empty nets often end up as litter in the environment. We recommend using a dedicated fat ball feeder instead.

Many budget fat balls contain "fillers" like sand, plaster, or cheap lime, which have no nutritional value. CJ Wildlife fat balls are made from high-quality, pure suet mixed with calorie-dense seeds, sunflowers, and insects. This ensures birds get the maximum energy boost with every bite, which is vital for their survival.

While our standard fat balls are designed to stay soft enough for birds to eat, they can soften in extreme direct sunlight. In hot summer months, we recommend hanging them in a shaded area.

Yes! Our peanut butter is an excellent high-energy food year-round. While it is a life-saver in winter, it also provides parent birds with a quick energy boost during the demanding breeding season. Just ensure the jar is placed in a shaded spot during very hot weather to keep the consistency firm.

No, you should never feed birds peanut butter intended for human consumption. Human peanut butter contains high levels of added salt, which is toxic to birds and can cause kidney failure. Our peanut butter is specially formulated with zero added salt, making it a safe and highly nutritious treat for your garden visitors.

The best way is to use one of our dedicated peanut butter feeders. These holders are designed to grip the jar securely, making it easy for birds to land and feed while keeping the jar protected from the rain. You can also smear a small amount directly onto the bark of a tree which is a great way to feed woodpeckers and nuthatches.

Yes, just like our whole peanuts, all the peanuts used in our peanut butter are rigorously laboratory-tested for aflatoxins. This ensures that the food is 100% safe and free from the harmful toxins that can develop in poor-quality peanut crops.

Yes. However, we recommend adjusting your mix with the seasons. In winter, choose a mix with extra suet pellets for fat; in spring, look for mixes with a high percentage of sunflower hearts and added mealworms for a protein boost during breeding season.

Standard seed mixes may germinate if they fall on the soil. If you want to prevent this, we recommend our "No Weed" (or "No Mess") mixes. These seeds have been de-husked, which prevents them from sprouting while remaining 100% nutritious for the birds.

Ideally, clean your bird feeders about every two weeks. In warm or wet weather, it’s best to do it weekly, as food can spoil faster and bacteria grow more easily. A quick clean keeps food fresh and helps prevent diseases from spreading among visiting birds.

Cleaning is simple. Empty the feeder, brush away old food and debris, and wash it with warm water. For a deeper clean, use a bird-safe solution, rinse thoroughly and let it dry completely before refilling.

A clean feeder means healthier birds and a busier garden and that’s exactly what we all want to see.

If squirrels or larger birds are emptying your feeders, a few simple tweaks can make a big difference.

First, try using squirrel-resistant guardian caged bird feeders or feeders with weight-activated perches like our Cork feeders. They help keep the food safe and the birds coming back.

Placement helps too. Hang feeders at least 2-3 metres away from trees, fences or roofs, so squirrels can’t launch themselves onto them. With the right feeder and setup, the food goes exactly to the birds you want to attract.

Yes, most of our high quality bird feeders are designed to handle the weather. But the level of frost- and weather-resistance depends on the materials and design. Here’s what you should know:

Our feeders are built for year-round outdoor use. Many models are made from durable materials such as metal, polycarbonate plastic, or weather-resistant wood, which can withstand rain, wind and temperature changes.

Features that make a feeder more weather-proof include:

• Wide roofs or covers that keep rain and snow off the seed
• Drainage holes to prevent moisture and mould
• Metal feeding ports and bases, which cope better with freezing and thawing than thin plastic parts

These details help keep the food dry and the feeder functioning properly even during cold or wet weather.

What about frost and winter conditions?

A well-designed feeder can stay outside in winter. Models with metal components and sturdy plastics usually perform best because they are less likely to crack or jam in freezing temperatures.

Yes, we do. Many of our bird feeders are designed so you don’t have to replace the whole feeder if one part wears out.

We offer a range of spare parts for selected models. Simply check the product page or our bird feeder accessories for spare parts to see what’s available for your feeder. Replacing a small part is quick, affordable and better for the environment and it keeps your feeder working perfectly for years to come.

Different birds have different feeding habits and prefer different foods. Tiny niger seeds for example require a special feeder with small ports. Peanuts require a mesh feeder to prevent choking, while sunflower hearts work best in a tube feeder. Using the right feeder ensures the food stays fresh and is accessible to the birds you want to attract.

Ideally, hang your feeder about 1.5 to 2 metres off the ground. This is high enough to be out of reach of cats and other ground predators, but still convenient for you to reach for cleaning and refilling.

Birds can be wary of new objects. It may take anywhere from a few days to two weeks for them to feel safe. Try hanging the new feeder near your old one, or sprinkle a little bit of seed on a nearby flat surface to "invite" them over.

Yes, but it is important to check the food afterwards. While many of our feeders have drainage holes and overhanging lids to keep seed dry, moisture can still lead to clumping or mould. If the seed becomes damp, it should be cleared out and replaced after cleaning the feeder.

Yes, all our plastic feeders are made from high-quality, UV-stabilized polycarbonate. They are designed to be non-toxic and durable, ensuring that no harmful chemicals leach into the bird food, even when exposed to direct sunlight or extreme weather.

Position your feeder in an open area about 2 metres away from thick hedges or bushes. This gives birds enough cover to retreat to if a predator appears, but prevents cats from hiding nearby and pouncing from the bushes.

Adding a tray is highly recommended. It catches falling seeds, which prevents waste, keeps your garden tidy, and stops "ground-feeding" birds from eating potentially contaminated seeds from the floor. It also reduces the chance of attracting unwanted rodents.

Our metal feeders are made from powder-coated steel to prevent rust, they are very sturdy and weather-proof. However, we recommend checking the joints occasionally.

This depends on the birds you want to attract. For small tits (Blue Tits, Coal Tits), a box with a 28mm hole is ideal. For House Sparrows, a 32mm or even 34mm hole works best. If you have plenty of ivy or shrubs, an open-fronted box will attract Robins and Wrens. Choosing a WoodStone® box is always a great choice as it provides the best thermal insulation for all species.

Position the nest box at least 2 to 3 metres high on a wall or tree. Face the entrance between East and South-East, and make sure the nest box is protected from rain. If you want to hang up more than one nest box with the same entrance hole make sure that they are at least 10 metres apart.

The best time to clean is in September once the breeding season is over. Remove old nesting material (which may contain parasites) and scrub the interior with hat water only, avoid using harsh detergents or chemicals. Ensure the box is completely dry before reassembling and hanging it back up.

Ensure the box is placed high enough and avoid placing it near horizontal branches that cats can sit on. Our WoodStone® boxes are naturally resistant to predators. For wooden boxes, you can add a metal plate as protector to stop woodpeckers from enlarging the hole and always ensure there is no perch outside the entrance for a cat to hold onto.

While you can put up a nest box at any time, autumn is ideal. This gives birds plenty of time to discover the box and even use it for roosting (staying warm) during cold winter nights before the breeding season begins in early spring.

We recommend leaving WoodStone® or high-quality wooden boxes as they are. If you must paint a wooden box, only paint the outside and use a non-toxic, water-based preservative. Never paint the inside or the entrance hole, as birds may peck at it and ingest harmful chemicals.

If insects move in during the summer, it is best to leave them undisturbed, as they are also important pollinators. Once they leave in the autumn, you can clean the box with hot water as usual. If this happens frequently, try an insect hotel which is beneficial for many insects.

For small tits (Blue Tits, Coal Tits), a box with a 28mm hole is ideal. For House Sparrows, a 32mm or even 34mm hole works best. If you have plenty of ivy or shrubs, an open-fronted box will attract Robins and Wrens. Choosing a WoodStone® box is always a great choice as it provides the best thermal insulation for all species.

You might see perches on decorative bird houses, but at CJ Wildlife, we purposefully leave them off. Garden birds do not need a perch to enter, but a perch does provide a perfect hand-hold for predators to reach inside and grab the eggs or chicks.

Yes! During cold winter nights, birds use nest boxes to shelter from the cold, wind and rain, and to conserve body heat. Providing a WoodStone® nest box is particularly helpful for this, as the material offers excellent thermal insulation compared to standard wood.

No, it is best to leave the box empty. Birds are very particular about their nesting materials and prefer to build their own nests from scratch using moss, twigs, and feathers. Providing nesting wool in a separate holder outside is a great way to help them, but keep the inside of the box clear.

It can sometimes take a season or two for birds to discover and trust a new nest box. Common reasons for an empty box include it being placed too low, too much human activity nearby, or the entrance hole facing the wrong direction (too much sun or wind). If it hasn't been used after two years, try relocating it to a quieter spot.

Most garden birds are territorial. For the same species (e.g., two pairs of Blue Tits), you should keep at least 10 metres between boxes. However, you can place boxes for different species (e.g., a Blue Tit box and a Robin box) closer together, as they don't compete as much.

Yes, this is very important. Old nests can harbour parasites like bird fleas, mites, and ticks, which can weaken next year's chicks. Wait until September to ensure the box is empty, then remove the nest and clean the box with hot water.

We recommend keeping nest boxes and feeding stations at least 5 to 10 metres apart. Feeders are busy, high-traffic areas that attract many birds and potential predators. A nesting pair needs a quiet, private territory to feel safe and to prevent them from spending all their energy defending the nest from "intruders" at the feeder.

Position the nest box at least 2 to 3 metres high on a wall or tree. Face the entrance between East and South-East, and make sure the nest box is protected from rain. If you want to hang up more than one nest box with the same entrance hole make sure that they are at least 10 metres apart.

For the best results, place your insect hotel in a sunny, sheltered spot, preferably south-facing. Insects like bees and butterflies need the sun's warmth to become active. Ensure it is protected from strong winds and at least knee-height (approx. 1 metre) off the ground to keep it away from damp vegetation.

This depends on the materials inside. Bamboo tubes and drilled holes attract Solitary Bees (like Mason Bees), while pine cones and bark provide shelter for Ladybirds, Lacewings, and Earwigs. These insects are "gardeners' friends" as they help with pollination and natural pest control (eating aphids).

Look at the ends of the bamboo tubes or holes. If they are sealed with mud, leaves, or resin, it means a female solitary bee has laid her eggs inside and provided them with a food supply. The new bees will emerge the following spring.

Unlike bird houses, you should not clean out the tubes of an insect hotel, as you might destroy developing larvae. However, you should check for cobwebs and remove them regularly. If the hotel is made of wood, you can lightly sand the entrance holes to ensure there are no splinters that could damage delicate insect wings.

No, it is best to leave it outside. The inhabitants are adapted to the local climate and need the natural temperature changes to develop correctly. Moving it into a heated house can cause them to emerge too early when there is no food (nectar) available, leading to their death.

Many cheap insect hotels use "filler" materials that are purely decorative or have holes with rough edges that can tear insect wings. CJ Wildlife hotels are ecologically designed with correctly sized, smooth-drilled holes and sustainable materials (like WoodStone® or FSC-certified wood) that provide superior insulation and durability.

We use various hole sizes (typically between 2mm and 10mm) to cater to different species of solitary bees. Smaller bees, like the Harebell Carpenter Bee, prefer tiny holes, while larger Red Mason Bees need wider tubes. Providing a variety of sizes ensures your garden supports maximum biodiversity.

Sometimes, hungry birds (like Great Tits) will try to pull the larvae out of the tubes. If this happens, you can fix a small piece of chicken wire or a mesh guard about 2-3 cm in front of the hotel. This allows the insects to fly through easily while keeping bird beaks away from the nesting tubes.

You can put out a hedgehog house all year round! In autumn (October/November), they provide a safe, insulated place for hibernation. In spring and summer, they are used as nesting sites for mothers and their hoglets, or simply as a secure daytime retreat to hide from predators and the sun.

Choose a quiet, shaded, and sheltered spot in the garden, such as under a thick hedge, behind a shed, or in a quiet corner with plenty of leaf litter. Ensure the entrance does not face North or North-East (to avoid cold winds) and place it on dry ground to prevent dampness inside.

We recommend putting a layer of dry leaves, hay, or straw inside to help the hedgehog get started. Avoid using blankets or towels, as these can get damp and cause the hedgehog to become too cold. The hedgehog will often bring in more of its own nesting material once it moves in.

Cleaning should only be done once a year when you are sure the house is empty, typically in April (after hibernation) or October (before hibernation). Wear gloves, remove old nesting material, and scrub the interior with hot water. Never clean the house if a hedgehog is inside!

All CJ Wildlife hedgehog houses are designed with safety in mind. Many include safety features like a long "tunnel" entrance that prevents cats, foxes, or badgers from reaching inside with their paws. Placing the house in a secluded spot with natural cover also provides extra protection.

Look for small clues like dry leaves that have been moved around the entrance, or "droppings" nearby. You can also place a small, light twig across the entrance; if it has been pushed aside the next morning, someone has moved in! Avoid lifting the lid to check, as this can cause the hedgehog to abandon the house.

No, it’s best to avoid both. Milk can cause serious digestive problems, and bread offers no nutritional value. Instead, offer specialist hedgehog food (wet or dry) or meat-based cat or dog food (non-fish varieties are best). And don’t forget a shallow bowl of fresh water, often the most valuable thing you can provide.

Squirrels are highly intelligent and have a natural instinct for foraging. They quickly learn to lift the lid of the feeder to reach the food inside. To help them at first, you can prop the lid open slightly with a small twig for the first day or two until they realise there is a reward inside.

Fix the feeder to a tree trunk, a sturdy fence, or a wall, approximately 1.5 to 2 metres off the ground. Place it well away from your bird feeders to reduce competition and prevent the squirrels from "taking over" the bird feeding area.

Our specialist squirrel food is ideal, as it contains a balanced mix of sunflower seeds, hazelnuts and more nutritional ingredients. You can also use whole peanuts or striped sunflower seeds. Avoid giving them too much fruit or salty snacks, as these are not healthy for them in large quantities.

Just like bird feeders, squirrel feeders should be cleaned regularly to prevent the build-up of bacteria. Empty any old or damp food, scrub the interior with a special cleaner or hot water, and ensure it is completely dry before refilling it with fresh nuts.

Bats need warmth, so place the box in a sunny, sheltered spot (South, South-West, or South-East facing). It should be at least 3 to 5 metres high on a tree or a building wall. Ensure there is a clear flight path to the entrance, with no obstructing branches or bright artificial lights (like security lights) nearby.

Bats are very sensitive to change and may take several months, or even a year or two, to discover a new box. It is best to hang bat boxes in the autumn or winter so they are ready for the spring. Once a colony finds a suitable home, they are likely to return year after year.

No, never. In the UK, bats and their roosts are legally protected. It is an offence to disturb them. To check if the box is being used, look for small, dark droppings (which look like crumbly mouse droppings) on the ground or the wall beneath the box, or watch for bats emerging at dusk.

No, most bat boxes are designed to be self-cleaning. Because the entrance is usually at the bottom, droppings (guano) fall out naturally. Since you are not allowed to disturb bats, you should leave the box alone unless you are a licensed professional.

The most common visitors to garden bat boxes in the UK are Common Pipistrelles and Soprano Pipistrelles. Depending on your location and the type of box, you might also attract Brown Long-eared bats or Noctules.

Place the house in a damp, cool, and shaded area of your garden. Ideally, this should be near a pond or in a spot with plenty of ground cover, such as near long grass, ferns, or under a hedge. Avoid direct sunlight, as amfibians need to keep their skin moist to stay healthy.

No, the frog house should be placed on land, near the water's edge. While kikkers and toads spend time in the pond, they also spend a significant amount of time on land looking for food and shelter. The house provides a safe terrestrial retreat.

WoodStone® or ceramic materials are ideal. They are naturally breathable and stay much cooler than plastic or wood. WoodStone® also absorbs and retains moisture from the ground, creating the perfect damp micro-climate that amfibians require.

They will use it throughout the spring and summer to stay cool during the day and hide from predators like birds and hedgehogs. In winter, the house provides a secure spot for hibernation (overwintering), especially if you cover it with a little extra leaf litter or soil for insulation.

No, you don't need to put anything inside. However, placing the house on a patch of loose soil or moss is beneficial, as it allows frogs to burrow slightly if they want to. Ensuring the ground underneath stays naturally damp is the best way to make it inviting.

Generally, frog houses require very little maintenance. You can check it once a year in the late autumn (before hibernation starts) to ensure it isn't clogged with too much mud or debris. If needed, simply rinse it with cold water. Never use soaps or chemicals, as amfibians absorb substances through their sensitive skin.